10/01/2008

more on Cappadocia, Turkey

Wall Street Journal Reporter Janet Adamy on what to do and where to eat, shop and stay in this scenic region of Central Anatolia.

What to do: Travelers go to Cappadocia to see its bizarre rock formations -- some look like melting ice cream -- and centuries-old cave villages. Plan to take at least two hikes through the rock-enclosed valleys, making sure one is through the pink-hued Rose Valley. Duck into homes and churches carved into the caves there, and try to catch the sunset. It's best to hire a guide for the longer hikes since most trails aren't well-marked; a good one costs about €50 for half a day. Have your guide take you through the underground city of Derinkuyu. Take a hot air balloon ride over the region to get an unrivaled view of the surreal landscape. It's worth the steep price and predawn start time. Kapadokya Balloons is a well-run operator that offers rides starting at €175 (Tel. 90-384-271-24-42, www.kapadokyaballoons.com).

Where to eat and shop: Alaturca gets the most praise from travel writers for its Anatolian cuisine, and dishes like the mini ravioli in yogurt sauce are indeed delicious (on Gaferli Mahallesi road in Göreme, Tel. 90-384-271-28-82). But we had better food at Local restaurant (Müze Cad. No. 38, Göreme, Tel. 90-384-271-26-29). Ask for the lamb shank entree, which isn't listed on the menu, and save room for a piece of baklava for dessert. For souvenirs, ignore the trinket shops in Göreme and instead buy hand-painted pottery at Göreme Seramik (Müze Yolu Cad. No. 5, Tel. 90-384-271-28-53). Or go to the small main square in Uchisar. Özcan Onyx sells inexpensive bowls, figurines and clocks made from onyx (look for a small storefront on the main path sloping downward from the town square; Tel. 90-555-314-69-60).

Where to stay: Uchisar is the best town in Cappadocia to get a room because it has tourist amenities yet still feels unspoiled. Les Maisons de Cappadoce rents 15 units, some carved into the rocks, starting at €130 a night for a studio and going up to €980 a night for a stunning three-bedroom house (Belediye Meydani #6, Tel. 90-384-219-28-13, www.cappadoce.com). Museum Hotel offers cooking classes and massage, and some rooms have a spigot that pours wine. Rooms start at €130 and top out at €1,650 a night for an imperial suite (Tekelli Mah. No. 1, Tel. 90-384-219-22-20, www.museum-hotel.com).

Write to Janet Adamy at janet.adamy@wsj.com

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